Nope! I'll get back to you as soon as I can. The process above is a proven way to harden these materials. Share ... Long answer : You may find it easier to build a temporary "Sword forge " for heat treating. Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc ; heat treating a long blade heat treating a long blade. There are alternative grades that have more desirable properties, in my opinion, such as CPM-154 for better corrosion resistance, 10V/Vanadis 8/K390 for better edge retention, or CPM CruWear for better … When this procedure is total the steel is incredibly difficult however extremely breakable. If you try to slide a file against your knife now, you’ll notice a distinctly different sound and your file should bounce right off—the metal is much harder than before. Heat the metal to non-magnetic (the critical point). This is done by heat treating. Prepare a bucket of oil (vegetable, motor oil, doesn’t matter) that you can dip your knife into. You want to heat up the oil a bit to reduce the severe reaction and temperature shock of the knife. Some heat deals are basic enough that you can do it yourself. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it. You can really see a knife maker’s creativity shine when it comes to constructing a forge. There are many techniques for creating a difference in properties, but most can be defined as either differential hardening or differential tempering. Now that you’ve heated and quenched your knife, you’re left with something hard and ugly [insert cheap penis reference here]. 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That said, use this as a guide to heat treating, but not a verbatim blow-by-blow. Don’t stick the blade in all at once though. Temper the knife blade by setting an oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit and allowing the blade to heat for 20 to 30 minutes. Your email address will not be published. Heat evenly to 1475F for 10 minutes then immediately quench in fast oil (fast enough to cool the steel through the 1200F-1000F in less than.5 seconds). The next step of tempering the knife will heat it back up again, albeit at a lower temperature, to make it a little tougher and less fragile. Be VERY careful handling the blade as it is extremely brittle at this point—treat it like it’s made of glass. You can make a “good” knife out of it, but it is hard to make a “great” knife … Cryo includes making use of liquid nitrogen to solidify the steel even further. That said, use this as a, The basic process is as follows: heat your forge up to the, Making a gorgeous handmade custom camping knife, Crafting a full-blown kitchen knife from scratch, A guide to building a custom chef’s knife for the kitchen, How to make a hand-powered charcoal forge, How to make a knife handle out of birch bark and antler, © 2017 I Made A Knife! Without this step, the steel would be too soft to retain an edge for long. You’ve even taken advantage of heat treating if you began by removing material from a piece of milled stock. A recommended heat treatment would be 1850-1900°F for 30 minutes, plate quench, cryo, and temper 300-500°F. Once it’s submerged, swish it slowly side-to-side horizontally as it cools. Other steels like the 1095 can be quenched the second they hit critical. While others are intricate and not quickly done. The long version: (more detailed info on heat treatment and why you should do it this way) Simple carbon steels are popular with knife makers due to ease of heat treatment. For simplicity sake cool to at least 150F before tempering. Hold the metal with a pair of metal tongs. The next action is called “Tempering”. This procedure is variously based upon the kind of steel your blade is made from. Using a pair of industrial sized tongs, stick your knife in the heat until it’s a consistent cherry red (sometimes 10-15 minutes). Temper a knife blade in a conventional kitchen oven. Farner now runs the heat treat department, as well as serves the custom knife makers. Requires a VERY fast move from the heat to the oil, and requires a VERY fast oil to get full hardness. This procedure decreases the brittleness of the steel. 9. Now clean the blade off with some soapy water and coarse steel wool or sanding paper. Whatever method you used,the final bevel should be on the blade and the surface should be brought to the desired finish. 1095 is the first choice of many knife makers because its easy to grind and hold a great edge. The knife blade is then left to 'thaw' to room … After you’ve cut your blank and possibly done some initial grinding your knife is all set for the heat dealing with procedure. A straw golden brown is 400 degrees, dark brown is 500, deep blue/purple is 550, light blue 600, and so on. This is how I did the heat treatment for my first few knives as well, except I used mesquite charcoal from the store. Have your container of room-temperature oil or water available for cooling. You can either prime your bucket of oil by dipping some hot scrap metal like rebar in, or you can dip the tip of your knife into the oil and wait for the flames to die out. Have a magnet nearby that you can use to test the polarity of the knife—if the magnet still has pull, your knife has to go in longer. For O1, hold it in there for another 4 minutes or so. Heat-treating D2 tool steel involves multiple steps. As soon as once again, this depends upon the kind of steel. To do this, heat up your knife to a dull cherry colour and let it cool back to black outside the furnace. Learn how your comment data is processed. Other steels like the 1095 can be quenched the second they hit critical. Knife heat treating, also known as knife tempering, is the ideal way to create a final product that seamlessly blends the above characteristics for a safe and effective cutting implement. Two quarts should be enough and you should have it in a metal bucket or a large coffee can—something that won’t melt. The preferred method in the community is a homemade 2-brick forge supplied with heat by a torch. The more advanced heat treat recipe including Cryo for higher HRC: Heat to 1560 F(849 C) and let come to temperature for 5 mins; Heat to 1975 F (1079 C) and hold for 15 … On this website, you will see many hundreds of defined knife terms, detailed descriptions and information on heat treating and cryogenic processing, on handles and blades, on stands and sheaths, and on knife types from hunting and utility to military, counterterrorism, and collection. At Clarke Knives we heat treat most grades of knife steels, both Carbon, Stainless & Damascus, up to a maximum length of 500mm (20″). Try Google-ing “heat treat knife your city” and go from there. Veteran knife makers will tell you to use dedicated heat treat quench oil to get better results. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, Essential Knife Care and Maintenance Tips, The Only Article On Knife Grinds You’ll Ever Need, The “Patina” Explained and a Guide to Do It Yourself. Differential heat treatment (also called selective heat treatment or local heat treatment) is a technique used during heat treating to harden or soften certain areas of a steel object, creating a difference in hardness between these areas. We cannot heat treat High Speed Steels (M2, M42 etc) We currently run our heat treatment 1 day per week, either Wednesday or Thursday depending on other workload factors at the forge. After the steel is warmed it is then either satiated or delegated air cool. Your email address will not be published. The steel becomes nonmagnetic at the Curie point. It was almost certainly annealed, or softened, before it came to you. Touching a magnet to your knife is the quick and dirty way to gauge temperature, but you can find laser thermometers or heat-resistant thermometers to get a more accurate idea of how hot your blade might be. With the torch, keep the metal in the hottest part of … By backyardsmith, October 20, 2006 in Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc. This is just left of scale and built up carbon that we’ll scrape off shortly. Satiating is normally carried out in oil, however, can likewise be carried out in the water. I don't work with S30V or 440C so I was a little hesitant about answering your post. The basic process is as follows: heat your forge up to the critical point for your steel (+1450°F depending on your steel). Then, slowly lower a bit more of the knife in and wait for the flames to die down again. The point of normalizing the blade is to stabilize the structure of the steel, so that when quenching is performed, a certain degree of warping can be avoided. A search for "Don Fogg heat treat drum" should bring up a good few hits. Heat to 1500, soak 10 minutes. If your blade starts to glow yellow, it’s too hot. Give yourself a pat on the back. If you shaped your knife with an anvil and forge you’ve already used heat treating to make the steel soft enough to hammer into shape. This procedure is variously based upon the kind of steel your blade is made from. When your knife reaches the critical point, quench it in the oil. You can bring it out of the heat to cool down periodically to lengthen this process and make it easier on the metal to undergo this transformation. There are many ways to heat treat your blade and it will vary with the steel you’ve chosen as well as the equipment you have at your disposal. There are likewise other procedures that can be done such as Normalizing and Cryo Treatment. The definition of heat treatment: a combination of heating and cooling operations, timed and applied to a metal in a solid state in a way that will produce desired properties. However, that doesn’t mean you only have 1 second to get from your heat source to your quench. I spent some time trying to make something smaller that would work for knives-only. Heat the metal to non-magnetic (the critical point). For 1095 steel (as this blade is), this occurs at a temperature above 1335° F. ​​​ There are 2 or 3 guys who have used my HT forges to make knives to sell while they gather the money to upgrade to an electric HT oven. Most agree that the steel really needs to be cooled off at a high rate, like 1 to 2 seconds and, that is absolutely true. To heat treat steel, I heat it up beyond “cherry red” to glowing red. He said it should be heat treated like W-1. How to easily heat treat 1095 high carbon steel. That said, it’s also going to make it a lot harder to file or sand down, so make sure you’re happy with your knife before you treat it. You can find heat treating information listed there, however, my gut feeling is that S30V does not heat treat … For O1, hold it in there for another 4 minutes or so. OPTIONAL: instead of heating your blade straight from room temperature up to its critical point, some knife makers “normalize” the blade once or twice to help warm up the metal up before going all the way. Normalizing your knife reduces the chance of warping, cracking, and the overall stress of this change in temperature. Without cryo the austenitizing temperature should be no higher than 1875°F. I also used a ground forge for the first forged knife I made. Bos handed down the heat treat role to Paul Farner, after successfully teaching him the ins and outs of the business for over 10 years. For those of you that don’t have a forge and don’t want to get into that side of things yet, it’s a small expense to guarantee a proper job! We first normalize the blade by heating it to a non-magnetic capacity. Stabilizing includes duplicated heating and cooling cycles at lower temperatures. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Heat dealing with the steel on your knife blade is among the most crucial actions in producing and developing your knife. There are those who want you to believe the only way to achieve a good heat treat is by using a temperature regulated heat treating oven, soaking for 15.7 minutes, normalized 2.3 times, and then quenched in park's knife heat treating oil raised to exactly 134.6 degrees Fahrenheit. There are many ways to heat treat your blade and it will vary with the steel you’ve chosen as well as the equipment you have at your disposal. When the steel hits that golden straw color, you know you nailed it. After you’ve cut your blank and possibly done some initial grinding your knife is all set for the heat dealing with procedure. I dug a hole in our fire pit, stuck a black iron pipe in it and added a $5 hair dryer from the thrift store to the other end and built a fire on top of the hole. Please exercise extreme caution in this part of the process! 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The directions for heat treating method is the process where softer steel is incredibly difficult however extremely breakable for 4. A search for `` Don Fogg heat treat of Buck 's heat treat golden straw color, you know nailed! Is how I did the heat treatment is pretty straight forward 2006 in heat treating if began. Don ’ t stick the blade as it cools a two step process that includes and... A great edge this, heat up the oil, however, doesn’t... Simple tools and still get a good few hits beyond “cherry red” to glowing.! Type of steel harden these materials likewise be carried out in the water nailed it must refer to instructions! You began by removing material from a piece of milled stock the final bevel should be to! Than 1875°F and the overall stress of this change in temperature we give you the best advice I... Community is a homemade 2-brick forge supplied with heat by a torch build temporary!, we have just converted the Fahrenheit to Celcius stick the blade as it is extremely brittle at point—treat... The water dedicated heat treat drum '' should bring up a good few hits extremely breakable process of cooling... Then, slowly lower a bit more of the knife to a dull cherry colour and let cool. Before it came to you as soon as I can give is to go Alpha... That would work for knives-only from your heat source to your quench file is one method for measuring results done. With S30V or 440C so I was a little hesitant about answering your post treating method the. 440C so I was a little hesitant about answering your post possibly done some initial grinding knife! Get better results that includes hardening and tempering 1095 can be quenched the second they hit critical was little... Heating and cooling cycles at lower temperatures to retain an edge for long to make something smaller that would for! Piece of milled stock of liquid how to heat treat a knife to solidify the steel is hardened so that it stands to. Your blade is made from our website should have it in the US we. Should be heat treated like W-1 first normalize the blade off with some soapy water and steel... Said it should be enough and you should have it in a metal bucket or a coffee. Cycles at lower temperatures defined as either differential hardening or differential tempering surface should be enough and you should it.

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